Fermenting a stout how long

Now as to how long after fermentation is complete you want to leave your beer for, This is the most discussed topic on here, it has been readily covered. I suggest you read THIS thread, it's become the "uber discussion" on this topic thread.

To Secondary or Not? Many of us leave our beer in primary for a month minimum then bottle We find out beers to be clearer and better tasting. I suggest you read that thread, and experiment for yourself, and make up your own mind. There's thousands of threads where folks have ventured their opinions, and argued incessantly, but it ultimately comes down to what works for you Joined Nov 11, Messages Reaction score 14 Location hawthorne.

I've read the article on racking to secondary and have one question In this scenario is it better to rack to the carboy after primary fermentation to allow the beer to clarify further and the yeast to flocculate? My carboy is only a 5 gal so to use as primary i would need a larger carboy.

Peppers16 Well-Known Member. My beer is clearer because I leave it for an extended time in primary, then when I used to use a secondary. Left alone long enough the yeast cake compresses, and you even get some of the beer normally lost to trub back.

You must log in or register to reply here. Similar threads. Irish Stout - How long is too long in fermenter? Replies 9 Views 3K. Dec 7, osagedr. Replies 2 Views Feb 4, unionrdr. How long is too long for fermentation? Corey Kane Jan 18, How long to ferment Oatmeal Stout? First time doing an all-grain stout. I've never met a beer that didn't benefit from some time in a secondary.

Onthebeertrail and jsullivan like this. If you consistently come up short on your volume increase the amounts of malts in your recipe to brew a 5. Brewing software like Beersmith or Promash will do that for you. Mattreinitz Initiate 0 Mar 1, New York.

I'm just finishing up the last few bottles of my oatmeal stout. Boil gm of dextrose in a small amount of water and let it cool with the lid on, for minutes. Meanwhile rehydrate the Coopers yeast in a sanitized jar in some warm water below 30C for minutes. Add the yeast to the beer after you have added the dextrose and DAP mixture. Wait another week after you have added the Coopers yeast before checking the gravity.

If it has dropped I would wait another week before bottling. If it has not dropped, it may be done and you could bottle, but use very low priming rates as a precaution, and check the carbonation levels every days during the carbonation period, starting at day 12, until you are at the three week point. Given that you used Dark LME to make this brew, which contains additional roasted malts, you are going to have to age this brew for quite a while months anyway, so there is no hurry to bottle it.

Ok, so i have just re read the recipe from Coopers site here. Also, with pitching yeast, is it better to re hydrate it to give it a better chance at fermenting? What would happen if i bottled normally now at FG of 1. Would it make much different to the taste or flavour? Or only the ABV?? Yes, you can use US, if that is what you have on hand.

Table sugar should be fine. You can skip the yeast nutrient, but it is not a bad idea to get some next time you are at the shop, to have on hand. It is helpful in situations like this. When making high gravity beer it can also be added at the start of fermentation, to help prevent a stuck ferment from happening. It is also a good idea to use whenever you are using a lot of sugar. Yup, it is always better to rehydrate yeast. Dry pitching kills about half the cells. Warm tap water is gentler, so more survive the rehydration process.

If you bottle now, at 1. If you use PET bottles it is less dangerous, but it will over-carbonate and gush all over the place when you open the bottle, wasting a lot of beautiful beer. I suppose there is also the possibility the yeast would not respond to the priming sugar and then you would have sweet, flat beer. I will def be re hydrating the yeast every time from now on. So all i have to do is put it in water below 30 deg for mins?

Hey Nik. Yeah, that is pretty much all there is to rehydrating yeast. Rinse the container with Starsan first though. Make sure to measure the temperature of the water with a thermometer and don't just guess. If it is too hot you could kill your new yeast. Once you have added the yeast, cover the top of your jar with a [loose] lid or piece of foil to keep out dust and insects. At the half way point you could give it a little stir with a sanitized spoon.

No need to stir the fermentor after adding the sugar and yeast. The yeast will stir it up. Keep us posted Nik. I am interested to see what your final gravity will be. I have added gm of white sugar to about 2 cups of water.

Brought to boil and rested with lid on for 30 mins. Water in sanitized jar at approx 25 degrees, yeast in US , glad wrap on top and left for 30mins. Was very milky in color when finished. Well then, it must be done; probably no danger of bottle bombs then. But I would still let wait the week before bottling, and prime on the low side.

And just for safety sake try checking the carbonation level of one bottle at two weeks, and one at three weeks, and one at four weeks. If it is normal, you can relax and let them age for however long you are going to age them for. If they seem to be over-carbing, stick them in the fridge. I am not a brewer of big beers like this, but I think they advise to let at least a dozen or so age until they are six months, if you have the self-control.

I now personally leave my at least two weeks for yeast to settle and sometimes crash chill Fermenting with ale yeast is usually finished between four to five days then needs yeast to settle Your Brew is fine to bottle after the 7 days mate If you wanted to leave it longer or crash chill in fridge this would simply add a cleaner beer.

Actually Waylon, you and I don't totally disagree.